Day 2: Sumdo to Yangthang

Early wake up, cardamom tea and washing water brought to our tents, morning stretch, big breakfast whilst the crew packed up the campsite…..that became our routine, and a great way to start each day of the trek. Alan planned for us to start off by 8am at the very latest…...so we left Sumdo around 8.45 (by the end of the trek Alan gave in to our tardiness!).

We reached Chagatse La at 3,800m - our second high pass and the half way point of the day's 5.5km trek. 

I've added a couple of Alan's photos to show our campsite at Yangthang. How privileged we were! 

My memories have faded a bit now. What I do I remember is ……..feeling ever stronger on the trek, despite the more challenging terrain; Greg setting up his canvases for the afternoon - the rest of us were mesmerised as two of his four paintings emerged; a stretching session with Viv in what must be the world's best therapy site; Angie, Priyanka, Viv and me soaking our feet in a bowl of the most refreshing water from the camp's mountain stream; a fun filled ride on the back of a truck to a very warm welcome and mint tea in the local village; and Alan delighting the locals - he and Rigzin had stayed here in February, and Alan gave them photos of their families and friends, as he'd promised them he would.

Day 1 - Liker to Sumdo

After a 2 hour drive from Leh, the capital of Ladakh, we reached Liker - and the start of an adventure that had taken many months to plan, nearly come unstuck several times and required huge amounts of physical and mental preparation. Throughout the trek Ladakh blessed us with astonishing blue skies and a backdrop that took our altitude-thinned breath away, every day. A fairly gentle start through apricot orchards towards the high pass at Phoebe La (3,600m) and our first camp at Sumdo - 7km away, we were told. Remember that number!

Led by our guides Alan and Rigzin, we moved on to remote, higher and more challenging terrain. I'd never before seen a landscape this dramatic - wrought by the ferocity of nature into captivatingly beautiful patterns, and with hues of orange, yellow, rust, purple, green and blue. We'd all seen many places on our travels, but everyone was starting to understand that there is something very special here. We were loving this - and the conversation and the laughter was flowing!

Alan and Rigzin had come to Ladakh on a recce last February, but this part of the trail was inaccessible due to snow, so they had tried to estimate the distance, based roughly on the time it had taken previous groups to walk. They estimated 7.5km and we expected to arrive at the campsite at Sumdo by mid afternoon. We climbed ever higher, over the first of the high passes (Phoebe La at 3,600m). The camp came into view early to mid afternoon - but the route towards it was a series of switchback paths, that seemed to take us closer, and then further away, closer then further away……every time that happened, it sapped our energy; for me, the neuropathic pain kicked in and grew ever stronger; Greg's arms and shoulders were feeling the strain; and the group around us started to feel it emotionally as they witnessed Greg and me push on through what became a very gruelling first day. We eventually reached camp early evening, and Alan's GPS told us we had walked 9.5km: two more than expected, a lot at this very high altitude. Greg and I were drained and fatigued, but exhilarated - and buoyed by the energy of the very special friendships that had started to form.

I crashed on the ground sheet for Viv to start to work her therapy magic, and Greg dropped next to me for Ang to help stretch him out. That evening, I knew inside, for the first time, that I could do what we came here to do, that I could complete the trek.

Scott Woodward's photos of the trek

Posting the photos of the trek taken by Scott Woodward for Johnnie Walker. Cheers to Scott

Starting with the shots from the pre trek studio shoot back in May. 

Which one of us was most relaxed at this point, do you think?! We both really enjoyed the studio shoot (thanks to Mike, Meghan Scott for making it such relaxed, easy fun), but the emotions came through for both of us as we recounted our journeys and looked ahead to the trek.

Two real favourites. 

Ready to head to the mountains!

We made it!!

Greg and I completed the trek - just over 35km, across 5 days, at between 3500 and 3900m, in the magnificent Himalayan landscape of Ladakh. The trip exceeded every hope and expectation. The scenery was achingly beautiful and ever changing. The people of Ladakh took us into their communities and homes with great warmth. Our group gelled wonderfully, sharing moments of great emotion and forming friendships and memories that will last a life time. And though the trek was punishing at times, Greg and I both held up very well. We achieved our dream and all of us felt privileged to take part in something that felt very, very special.

The film and photo journal are going through post production and will be released around early August, I hope. Here are a few photos to whet the appetite.  These were taken by our mountain leader Alan Ward - stunning photos that show he is a man of many talents! But if you think these are good, just wait tip you sees what the film crew produce!  

Arriving in Leh with Viv, my therapist. We both felt the effects of the 3500m altitude - a slow first day!

Day 2 - a practice run, down the steep slope from Tsemo Gompa, Leh

Tsemo Gompa

Day 3 - we visited Stok, an hour's drive from Leh, and stumbled upon the village archery competition.

The road out of Leh (in the valley in the distance) towards the Nubra Valley, where we spent two more days acclimatising

Its a long, steep, winding 8 hour journey..

…with very little space..

… and no room for error

the road is part of the old Silk Route, which was once part of the "route to market" for Johnnie Walker! Here's Alan Ward, our mountain leader, with a photo op with our sponsor!!

the pass, Khardung La, is the highest motor able road in the world (open just a few months of the year)

Greg and me, at the top!

Its worth the journey…. Hundar in the Nubra Valley….

… where Angie, Viv, Greg and I took a camel ride across the sand dunes!

Diskit Gompa, one on the many spectacular monasteries perched precariously on the mountain sides

the trek…. in the most breathtakingly beautiful, awe inspiring landscape imaginable 

the group descending from one of the high passes, with Rigzin Tsewang,  our local guide, ahead of the ponies.  Rigzin took great care of us - thanks my friend!

Celebrating reaching one of the 4 high passes, with Mike Rogers our film director and Scott Woodward, our photographer

This is the big climb on the 5th day. To give the photo some scale, I've circled Mike and Scott in the middle ground and two French trekkers towards the top of the climb. From where Mike and Scott are, we descended the valley, to about 3500m and then climbed to the pass at just under 3900m

The climb took me around 1 hour. It was exhausting and exhilerating at the same time. Here I'm approaching the last swtch back before the final climb to the high pass. Just a few meters ahead from here, I found a rock to sit on to rest and enjoy the views. My words can't do the view justice, nor really describe my emotion - I found myself sitting there with pure joy and deep gratitude. This quote came to mind "He who stands upon the highest mountains laughs at any misfortune, real or imaginary". I laughed out loud!!! 

Greg and I complete the final stretch of this gruelling climb to the final high pass, topping out at 3850m. The path was not only long and steep but also very narrow and, in parts, very unstable under foot. It was a huge test for me....and I had the luxury of doing it forwards, using my walking poles and arms to support my legs. Greg climbed this sideways, using his arms only. That's when I really understood the immense physical and mental strength of my friend. Awesome!

at the finish line - after 35km, a moment of celebration, followed soon after by a lot of emotion

after the trek we took another 8 hour, high mountain pass trip to Pangong Lake, a 128km lake much of which is in China

…and yet again we were left speechless by the raw beauty

our last night by Pangong Lake, with a bonfire and Johnnie Walker to stave off the cold!